Successfully applying lash extensions is not at all easy. You have to have your collection of lash supplies including the lash tools and different curls to fit your natural lash. If only having your collection by your side was enough for better retention of lash extensions.
To start off, let’s spot the difference. Lash extensions that are placed properly and bond with the natural lash have better retention than the ones loosely bonded. The lash is properly placed only when both the lash extension and the natural lash is bonded at the base. This allows better retention and ensures that your lash doesn’t fall off the moment you try to put some mascara on it.
For the middle lash row, it’s ideal to place the lash fan from the side or from the top, it won’t make such a big difference since the top and bottom lashes.
For the bottom lash layer ( the furthest away from the lash artist ) it’s ideal to place the fan from the top in order to avoid dropping lashes like this.
When working with layers it’s important to keep in mind correct placement. Each lash layer will have a different optimal placement. For The first lash layer for example ( closest to the lash artist, furthest away from client ). It’s important to place the lash extension fan from the bottom to avoid that messy look from the top.
A common mistake that is made is placing the lash in such a manner that both the bases aren’t connected or flat. In such a case, the lash doesn’t bond properly and there is bad lash retention.
If the bases aren’t aligned and have somehow managed to bond, then they form an open lip which accumulates debris of makeup and can lead to many infections. This is why it is important to get the right angle before binding so that the placement is just right.
The right angle depends on the angle of both the lash that you use as well as your natural lash.
What we’ll explain next are the types of curls in lash extensions and the types of natural curls of lashes. There are seven curls for application namely, J, B, C, CC, D, L, and L-Lift where J is the least curly, and D is the curliest. The L and L-Lift first advance forward before curling outwards and upwards.
There are four ways of directing the lash placement
1. Slanted direction outwards
2. Slanted inwards
3. Straight placement
4. Combined directions
Let’s consider this example:
Your client’s eyes are far apart if you direct the lashes towards the outer corners, you will emphasize her eyes being far apart, and the final result will be less then ideal.
On the other hand, if you make the lash direction straight or slightly tilted inwards towards the nose, you will have the opposite effect. This will make the clients appreciate your overall work more, because of the balanced symmetry of her features.
Let’s take another example:
A client with slanted eyes, in order to give a more open wider look to the client’s eyes you can work on straightening the direction.
Another important factor is the distance between the eyelid and the lash extension. If it is bigger then 0.5 cm, it is more difficult to keep the perfect direction of your lash set, because the lashes will naturally start dropping downwards and it will look uneven and messy in a week after the clients leave from your appointment.
The three types of natural lashes are straight, downwards, and curly. Before choosing the type of curl for your eyelash, you need to know that choosing whichever you like the most may not always work for you.
Along with the curl, you also have to consider the length and the number of lash extensions. However, all of that ultimately depends on your natural lashes’ strength to be able to hold your lash extensions.
Extensions must be placed along with the natural eyelash, 0.5mm-0.1mm away from the skin along the lash line. If the extensions are not correctly placed at the distance required, this can result in two issues.
First, you will be too far out along the natural lash, leaving a visible gap. This will make it look like the client has had 2 – 3 weeks of lash growth and they are requiring infills.
Alternatively, if the lash extension is placed too close to the skin, you may have the opposite concern. In this case, the lash will rub every time that the client opens and closes their eye. Even blinking will feel like they have sand rubbing in their eye.
Amazing lash retention: How to achieve it? A lash artist’s absolute worst nightmare is when their client’s lashes do not last, this can be a very time consuming and stressful mistake to correct.
No lash artist wants their clients to lose faith in them, and no longer trust them with their lashes. Read on in this blog you will get a lot of useful information on how to detect true retention problems and prevent them from ever happening again.
What is Lash Retention and why is it so important?
Lash Retention is simply how long eyelash extensions last on the natural lash before falling out. Unfortunately, there is no set amount of time that a set of eyelash extensions should last as we all have different Lash Growth Cycles and these continually change due to factors such as change of season, hormones among other things.
The most important thing is that as Lash Stylists we do everything we can to help ensure that the eyelash extensions we apply last the full length of each client’s natural lash cycle.
Once you’ve chosen your curl, they have to be held at a particular angle (depending on the curl you choose) for proper placement and hence, better retention. Without the correct angle, your lash will fall right off or won’t even bond with the natural lash in the first place.
But how do you adjust the angle and how do you know what is the right angle, to begin with? The angle is adjusted by the angle of your wrist. If your wrist is too flat as you try to attach a lash, it will lead to a lip formation or won’t bond very well. If your wrist is too upright, then it won’t bond to the lash either.
As, a lash artist, I often demonstrate this technique in my training. It’s important to use the correct lash supplies and I show how to make the proper connection for better retention of the lashes.
It’s important to place a lash extension properly so that it bonds and has better retention. Switch on all your lights, grab your lash supplies, and get to work!