Working With Lash Curls

Lash extensions have revolutionized the beauty industry, offering endless possibilities for enhancing your clients’ natural beauty. But one thing every lash artist quickly learns: there's no "one-size-fits-all" approach when it comes to lashes.

Understanding different lash curl types and how they interact with natural lashes can elevate your artistry from basic to brilliant. The right curl not only complements your client’s natural lashes and eye shape but also ensures they leave your chair feeling fabulous and confident.

In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about lash curls—from how they impact the final look to tips for maximizing retention. Whether you’re new to the lash industry or a seasoned professional, this information will help you better customize lash designs and wow your clients.

 

 

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Why Lash Curls Matter

The beauty of lash extensions lies in their ability to be completely customizable. Your goal as a lash artist is to create the perfect look for each client, and choosing the right curl is a big part of that process.

Cashmere Noir Collection Lashes is used here. To shop, please click here.

 

Lash curls can drastically change the final result, helping to:

• Lift and open the eyes

• Enhance or balance facial features

• Create everything from subtle natural looks to dramatic, voluminous effects

Mastering how to work with different lash curls is essential for achieving beautiful, long-lasting results for your clients. Let’s get into the specifics of each lash curl so you can make more informed choices during your appointments.

 

Understanding Lash Curl Types

Lash extensions come in a variety of curls, each designed to suit different eye shapes, natural lash angles, and personal preferences.

Here are the most common lash curl types and how they can be used to create the perfect look for your clients:

 

B Curl: The Natural Beauty

The B curl provides a gentle lift and is one of the most natural-looking curl types. It mimics the shape of a natural eyelash, making it perfect for clients who want to enhance their eyes subtly without going too dramatic.

• Best for: Clients with naturally straight or slightly curved lashes.

• Effect: Soft, natural lift that opens the eyes without being too bold.

Great for clients who prefer a more laid-back look or those just starting with lash extensions.

 

C Curl: The Classic All-Rounder

The C curl is a go-to for many lash artists because it offers a perfect balance between lift and natural appearance. It’s one of the most versatile curls, providing just the right amount of drama without being over the top.

 

• Best for: Clients with straight or slightly downward lashes.

• Effect: Opens and lifts the eyes, creating a rounded, bright-eyed look.

This curl is great for clients who want a noticeable enhancement but still want their lashes to look natural.

 

CC Curl: A Little More Lift

A step up from the C curl, the CC curl has a more defined lift but still maintains a soft and flattering curve. It’s great for clients who want a bit more of a statement without going full-on dramatic.

 

• Best for: Clients with slightly downward or straight natural lashes.

• Effect: Provides a more noticeable lift than the C curl, making the eyes look more open and awake.

 

D Curl: The Drama Queen

The D curl is where things get dramatic. With its tight curve, this curl offers maximum lift and creates a bold, eye-catching effect. It’s ideal for clients looking for a glamorous, voluminous look, perfect for special occasions or clients who love the spotlight.

 

• Best for: Clients with downward-facing lashes or deep-set eyes.

• Effect: Creates a high-impact, wide-eyed look that’s sure to turn heads.

If your client is craving extra drama, this curl is the way to go.

 

L Curl: The Lifter

The L curl is unique because it has a straight base that turns into a sharp lift. This makes it ideal for clients with hooded or monolid eyes, as it helps lift the lashes away from the eyelid, creating a more open-eyed look without overwhelming the natural lash line.

 

• Best for: Hooded eyes, monolids, and clients with straight or downward lashes.

• Effect: Provides a strong lift that opens up the eyes, making them appear larger and more defined.

 

L+ Curl: Extra Boost

The L+ curl has the same flat base as the L curl but with an even more pronounced lift. This curl is excellent for clients who want the effect of an L curl with an extra dose of drama.

 

• Best for: Hooded or monolid eyes, or clients with straight lashes who need extra lifting power.

• Effect: Amplifies the lifting effect for a more dramatic open-eye look.

 

M Curl: Maximum Lift

The M curl is all about lifting. With a sharp upward curve, it’s perfect for clients with downward-growing lashes, as it helps create a wide-eyed, lifted effect without adding too much bulk to the lash line.

 

• Best for: Clients with downward-facing lashes or deep-set eyes.

• Effect: Provides a significant lift, making eyes appear more open and refreshed.

 

U Curl: The Ultimate Drama

U curl, also known as DD curl, is the curliest lash extension available. Its extreme upward curve creates a dramatic, doll-like effect. However, this curl is best suited for clients with downward-growing lashes.

 

• Best for: Clients with downward-facing lashes who want a highly dramatic, doll-like appearance.

• Effect: Provides a bold, eye-catching curl that adds maximum lift and volume. However, it’s not ideal for clients with upward-growing lashes or heavily hooded eyes, as it can cause discomfort by pressing against the eyelids.

 

Choosing the Right Lash Curl Based on Eye Shape

To create the most flattering lash look, it’s crucial to consider your client’s eye shape. Each curl can affect how the lashes frame the eyes and complement the face.

Promade Fans 10D C curl size 7-15mm and Ultra Crystal Bond are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Here are some general guidelines for matching lash curls to eye shapes:

• Round Eyes: Use curls like B or C to maintain a natural balance. For a more dramatic look, D curl can create a wider appearance.

• Almond Eyes: Almond-shaped eyes work well with a range of curls, including C, CC, or D curls, depending on how much lift and drama the client wants.

• Hooded Eyes: L, L+, or M curls are ideal for clients with hooded eyes, as they lift the lashes away from the eyelid, making the eyes appear more open.

• Monolids: L and L+ curls are great for monolid eyes as they create a lifted, fanned-out effect without needing a natural curl to work with.

Matching the right curl to the client’s eye shape is the key to creating a balanced, harmonious look.

 

HOW TO MIX DIFFERENT LASH CURLS IN EYELASH EXTENSION?

As a lash artist, understanding how to mix lash curls can elevate your craft, creating unique, custom looks for your clients. Whether it’s correcting the growth pattern of natural lashes or enhancing the eye's natural beauty, mastering the art of combining lash curls can be a game changer.

Here’s a breakdown of how to expertly mix different curls for various lash types:

 

Downward-Growing Lashes:

• Goal: Lift and open the eyes.
• Use L, L+, and M curls for a dramatic lift.
• These curls provide a natural-looking lift without adding weight.
• Ideal for clients with hooded or deep-set eyes, as it enhances the visual lift.

 

Straight-Growing Lashes:

• Goal: Achieve a subtle, natural look.
• Use B, C, and J curls for a softer, more natural enhancement.
• C curl provides a slight lift, while B and J curls create a straightened, relaxed effect.
• Ideal for clients who want a "barely-there" lash extension set.

 

Upward-Growing or Curly Lashes:

• Goal: Complement natural curls without overdoing it.
• Use CC and D curls to mimic and enhance natural curls.
• D curls offer a dramatic, bold look by adding volume and length.
• Best for clients wanting a more pronounced lash line.

 

REMEMBER

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different lash curls—it can elevate your lash sets and create unique, custom looks that your clients will adore!

Here’s a breakdown of how to explore mixing lash curls and what to keep in mind:

Experiment with Different Curls:

• Using the same curl across the entire lash line can look flat. Instead, try mixing it up.
• For example, start with B or C curl in the inner corners, use CC curl for the middle, and finish with D curl on the outer edges.

 

Avoid Overusing D Curl:

• Be cautious not to use too much D curl, especially if it's touching the client’s eyes, as it can feel uncomfortable.

 

Key Tips for Mixing Lash Curls

Mixing lash curls may seem intimidating at first, but with practice, it becomes easier and makes your sets look more dynamic and customized for each client.

 

Prevent Crisscrossing:

• When mixing curls, it’s essential to avoid lashes crossing over each other, which can lead to uneven lash lines.
• This takes practice but is an advanced technique that can make a big difference in the final look.

 

Curls That Don’t Interfere:

• In the example (left image):C curl is used on top, which is shorter than the middle L curl.
• L+ curl is used at the bottom.
• The key here is that the curls don’t interfere with one another, creating a seamless and clean lash line.

 

What Happens When Curls Are Too Long:

• In the right image:The C curl on top is too long, causing it to lay flat against the L and L+ curls, creating an uneven lash line.
• This mistake could have been avoided by choosing a shorter curl for the top or using a curl with a softer bend like D curl.

 

Layering Curls Appropriately:

• In the bottom image:The L+ curl in the middle layer interferes with the C curl, making the set look flat.
• It would be better to place the L+ curl on the bottom and C curl on top to maintain a smooth look.

 

Retention Tips for Lash Curls

One common challenge lash artists face is ensuring that lash extensions last as long as possible. Retention can vary depending on the curl you use, as curlier lashes like D or M curls have less surface area for bonding compared to softer curls like B or C.

Cashmere Noir Collection Volume Lashes 0.07 C curl,  Incredible Retention Primer, Super Bonder, Bullet Lash Adhesive are used in this set. To shop, please click here.  

 

Here’s how to maximize retention:

• Choose the Right Adhesive: Stronger adhesive can help compensate for the reduced bonding area on curlier lashes.

• Proper Lash Prep: Ensure that the client’s natural lashes are clean and free from oils or makeup before applying extensions. This helps the adhesive bond better.

• Use Thinner Lashes: For curlier extensions, using thinner lashes can reduce the weight and help them last longer.

• Educate Your Clients: Make sure your clients know how to care for their extensions to prolong retention. This includes avoiding oil-based products and being gentle when washing around the eyes.

 

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How Lash Diameter and Thickness Affect the Final Look

While lash curls determine the shape and lift, lash diameter dictates the fullness and weight of the extensions.

 

Selecting the correct lash extension thickness is vital for achieving the desired look while ensuring the health of your client's natural lashes. Different thicknesses work for different lash styles—Classic or Volume—so it's essential to match the right thickness to the specific technique, lash strength, and the client’s desired outcome.

Below is a detailed guide on how to choose the appropriate thickness for both Classic and Volume lash applications based on various client needs:

Client Type	Recommended Thickness (Classic)	Recommended Thickness (Volume)	Reason
Asian Clients	0.10mm - 0.12mm	0.03mm - 0.07mm	Asian clients tend to have finer natural lashes, requiring lighter extensions to prevent damage.
Clients Aged 50+	0.10mm - 0.12mm	0.03mm - 0.06mm	Natural lashes become thinner and more fragile with age, so lighter extensions reduce strain.
Younger Clients (Strong Lashes)	0.15mm - 0.20mm	0.05mm - 0.07mm	Younger clients often have stronger natural lashes, allowing them to handle thicker extensions.
Clients with Weak or Fine Lashes	0.10mm - 0.12mm	0.03mm - 0.07mm	Weak or fine lashes benefit from thinner extensions to avoid damage and premature lash loss.
Clients Wanting a Dramatic Look	0.15mm - 0.18mm	0.05mm - 0.07mm	For clients who want a bold, voluminous style, thicker extensions create the desired dramatic effect.
Clients with Extremely Strong Lashes	0.20mm - 0.25mm	0.07mm	Clients with very strong natural lashes can handle heavier extensions for a more intense look.

 

 

Volume Lash Extension Weight Calculator

For Volume lash applications, it’s crucial to calculate the correct weight of the lash fans to avoid damaging the natural lashes. Each Volume fan consists of multiple lightweight extensions, and the total weight must not exceed what the natural lash can support.

Lash Thickness	Volume Fan Type (2D, 3D, etc.)	Weight Impact on Natural Lash	Best Use
0.03mm	6D - 20D	Lightest, ideal for creating Mega Volume fans	Perfect for Mega Volume sets (6D-20D) that require extreme fullness.
0.05mm	4D - 6D	Light to medium weight	Great for Russian Volume and Mega Volume styles.
0.06mm	3D - 5D	Medium weight	Ideal for Russian Volume, providing balanced volume and weight.
0.07mm	2D - 4D	Medium-heavy	Suitable for Russian Volume and lighter Volume sets.
0.10mm	2D	Heavier, more suitable for Hybrid sets	Best for Hybrid or light Volume sets where you mix Classic and Volume techniques.

 

 

Classic Lash Extension Thickness Guide

In Classic lash extensions, each extension is applied to one natural lash. Therefore, the thickness directly impacts the look and weight of the lashes, making it crucial to select the appropriate thickness based on your client’s lash health and desired effect.

Lash Thickness	Best Use for Classic Sets	Look Created	Notes for Lash Artists
0.10mm	Clients with thin or fragile natural lashes	Creates a very natural look, ideal for older clients or those wanting a subtle enhancement.	Use this thickness for clients with delicate lashes to avoid causing any strain or premature lash loss.
0.12mm	Clients seeking a natural, everyday look	Slightly thicker than 0.10mm but still soft and natural-looking.	Perfect for clients who want a step up from very fine lashes while maintaining a natural feel.
0.15mm	Most clients with average lash strength	Most popular for Classic lashes, creating a naturally full look without overloading the lash.	Suitable for clients who want a more noticeable enhancement while keeping the look relatively natural.
0.18mm	Clients with strong natural lashes	A bolder, slightly more dramatic effect.	Best for clients who want more volume but have strong natural lashes that can support the extra weight.
0.20mm	Clients with very strong, thick lashes	Delivers a bold, mascara-like effect.	Ideal for clients seeking maximum volume and drama—only apply to clients with strong natural lashes to support the weight.
0.25mm	Not commonly used due to weight	Can be used for very specific, glamorous looks.	Be cautious—this thickness is very heavy and should only be used on clients with extremely strong lashes to prevent damage.

 

 

THIS ILLUSTRATION EXPLAINS THAT IT IS IMPORTANT TO CONSIDER THE CLIENT’S EYES STRUCTURE WHEN CHOOSING THE MAPPING FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL CLIENT

Clients with folded eyelids and monolids inner corners should be mapped out slightly differently. As illustrated if the lash lengths are too short, like 7-8mm, then the skin will actually cover a large part of the client’s extensions.

The solution for this is to actually increase the length of the inner corner lashes, in order to balance out the client’s eyes and give the client an open-eyed look.

 

 

 

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Final Thoughts

As a lash artist, your ability to tailor lash extensions to each client is what sets you apart. Understanding and mastering different lash curls is essential to delivering custom, beautiful results. Whether your client wants a soft, natural enhancement or a bold, glamorous look, knowing how to choose the right curl can transform your lash game.

By considering factors like natural lash angle, eye shape, and client preferences, you can ensure that each set of lashes is perfectly suited to your client’s features and lifestyle. And when you add in the ability to boost retention through smart techniques, you’ll keep your clients looking fabulous—and coming back for more.

  

Do you find this blog post helpful? Have you learned something? Leave a comment below and share your thoughts. Don’t forget to share this blog with your lash friend.

 

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What You Need To Know About M Curl?: Learn everything about M curl, lash mapping and how to create a gorgeous set using this exotic lash curl that is taking this industry by storm.

How To Work Faster As A Lash Artist:  A Detailed video on how to speed up your lash extension application.

How To Pick A Lash Curl For Your Client?: In this blog, you will learn how to choose the right lash curl and length.