Working with Lash Curls

When it comes to your client’s eyelashes, choosing the right length and curl for them is very important. You want to be meeting your client’s specifications, but also educate them on what may be best for them.

You want to make sure they are getting the desired look while maintaining something safe and manageable for them. 

I often get questions from clients on which curl they should pick. Typically, I pick the curl depending on the look they are interested in, as well as on their eye shape.

For the right curl, we provide a variety of different curl extensions. This blog intends to educate each one of you to know the different curls that you can offer to your clients. 

J Curl - the most natural looking lash, it basically straight on the base and the least curly on all the curls that we are going to tackle on this blog. This curl will elongate your natural lashes, but will not provide very much curl at all. This lash is ideal for those going for a more natural look. It’s not often used because it tends to look too natural.

Recommended to be used on a straight lashes to ensure longer retention. 

So, if your clients opted to have an eyelash extension that still looking so natural, they J curl is for your girl. 

B Curl - this curl will give you the added lift while still staying fairly natural. Almost the same specification with the J curl, this has just a bit curlier. Result will still be on a natural look. 

B curl is suitable for clients who wanted to look for something extra look but still wanted to look like natural. 

C Curl - this curl is perhaps the most popular in the sense that it provides the lift of a lash curler to open up the eyes. This is recommended on slight curlier natural lash and as a result it will have a much stronger bond and lasting retention. 

The reason why most clients prefers this is as it is much curlier and it really has a popping effects. As for me, C curl is my go-to lashes, that is just so perfect to work with. 

C curl is for your clients who are eyeing for look that is dramatic, added so much attitude on the look, it opens up the eyes, well C curl works best! 

D Curl - this curl adds more lift than C curl for added definition and sweep.  This curl is not recommended for straight lashes and hooded eyes as it is a bit curly and it might hurt your eyelids. The curliest and considered to be giving you that dramatic look. This curl would look best on the younger clients compare to a mature ones. 

L Curl has flat base, I would recommend using this curl for clients who have straight lashes pointing downward. This curl will you a dramatic look and most clients love it so much. 

This curl looks best to those clients who has downturned lashes, L curl is a great one to help the lashes lift those lashes and someone who have hooded eyes. 

L curl with wisps 0.07 7-14mm

M Curl - this curl is so new and exotic, clients are asking for it more and more. It really emphasizes the client’s eyes the perfect way if used correctly. This curl is so new and exotic, clients are asking for it more and more. It really emphasizes the client’s eyes the perfect way if used correctly.

Specially designed for an “OPEN EYE” look, with naturally straight and down. clients with straight or downward-pointing natural lashes are ideal candidates for the M curl series. 

How to mix different curls

So let’s start with downward growing lashes - the most awesome curls to lift up those lashes are the L, L + and M curls, they will give a visual lifting effect.

For straight growing lashes, and for clients that would like to keep a fairly natural look. You can try using the C, B and J lashes . These are fairly straight lashes.

For upward growing lashes, in other words curly lashes , you can use CC and D curls in order to mimic the clients natural lashes and for giving the clients a more dramatic look this curl would be ideal.

How to choose the right lashes for different eye shapes?

As we always say, eyelash extension is customize and and looks will depend on the eye shapes that the client will have. It's the task of the lash artist to educate the clients on different lashes that is suitable for them or to their eye shapes. 

Your clients eye shape. This is called styling the clients eyes. The most important part is to ensure you enhance the clients beauty, and avoid emphasizing aspects the clients may not like so much. Clients may have various eye shapes such as almond, upturned, downturned, round, protruding. All these shapes will typically have various styles that will look nice. Clients with down turned eyes for example shouldn’t have the cat eye/ squirrel mapping since it will emphasize the Downturned eyes even more.

The size of your clients eyes will also play a role in which lash mapping and style you should give them . The large, small or in-between eyes As well as clients eyelids – monolids and hooded eyelids have different considerations when styling these clients eyes. There is no one size fit all solution unfortunately, since all clients eye shapes are different.

A monolid is an eyelid shape that doesn’t have a crease. An eye that does have a crease is known as a double eyelid. Monolids are typically a facial feature of Asian people. However, other races may also have a monolid or an eyelid shape without a crease.

It’s important to recognize that beauty comes in many sizes and, yes, eyelid shapes. Monolids are beautiful and special. Keep reading to learn more about why they’re so unique, how you can embrace them, and what options you have if you want to have a crease.

  • For monolids, it’s better to avoid using flat curls like J and B curls since the natural lash is already flat, this curl will simply weight down the lash and make the eye look smaller.  L and L + curls are exotic and trendy curls that can be used on some  monolid lash clients. These curls can sometimes obstruct the client’s view and therefore it is sometimes best to either avoid them or only use shorter lengths in order to avoid obstructing the client’s filed of vision.

Clients with monolids will generally have straighter lashes. For them, opt for a more dramatically curled lash, such as an L or L+. With their flat base and substantial curl, these extensions will pop open the eyes by peeking through the otherwise heavy lash line without weighing down natural eyelashes.

Choose a stronger curl like C-curl or D-curl for monolid clients. L and L Plus curls can be used for monolids, and they will result in a nice chic set.


Clients with folded eyelids and monolids inner corners should be mapped out slightly differently. As illustrated if the lash lengths are too short, like 7-8mm, then the skin will actually cover a large part of the client’s extensions.

The solution for this is to actually increase the length of the inner corner lashes, in order to balance out the client’s eyes and give the client an open-eyed look.


Which curl to use

For monolids, it’s better to avoid using flat curls like J and B curls since the natural lash is already flat, this curl will simply weight down the lash and make the eye look smaller.


The orientation of your eyes – deep set, wide set, close set, your eye color. 
The qualities of your clients natural lashes – their length, volume, color and curl.
Some clients will come see you with lashes so damaged that it’s simply not safe to apply eyelash extensions to them, and it’s best to just use growth serum until the lashes grow back and look healthy to withstand eyelash extensions again.

It’s also ideal to evaluate Your clients preferences – a girl next door, barely there mascara look vs. a dramatic look, for going out to a party . The best way to assess this is to ask your client, show me 3 - 4 lash sets you love and we can discuss if those sets are realistic for you.

When you wanted to be adventurous and play around with curls, that’s totally fine and clients will surely love it so much.

Don't be afraid to work with different curls, it'll be a good experience to for you to try on different curls. 

If you wanted to explore working with different curls, I would suggest if you will not the same curls all across the whole eyes. Go can start doing B or C in the inner corner and then proceed with the middle eye that you can use CC and you can end it with D.

Make sure you’re not using too much D that it’s already touching the eyes of the client as it will be feeling disturbing on your clients’ eyes.

When you are mixing your curls it’s important to avoid criss crossing different lengths and curls.
This is a very complex and advanced lash topic to cover, lash artists become comfortable with this topic only after a lot of practice and time.

In the first image as you can see the curl is a C curl on top, which is shorter than the middle curl which is a L curl , which is shorter than the L + curl on the bottom. The reason everything looks seamless in the first image is because the curls are not interfering with one another . If the C curl on top was longer even by 2-3 mm it would interfere with the other curls and cause an uneven lash line. The lashes would be sticking out from all sides and the eyeliner effect would be lost.

This is exactly what is happening on the image on the right. The C curl on top is too long, causing it to lay flat on the L and L+ curl. This mistake could have been avoided simply by picking a shorter curl for the top, or a more curly curl like D curl, or a L curl, which would cause a nice dark lash line without and lashes sticking out.

In the  final bottom picture the middle curl is L + curl it is inappropriate on the middle layer because it interferes with the C curl which is too flat, it would be best to put the L+ curl on the bottom layer so that it’s sharp bend wouldn’t interfere with the C curl which is more flat.

This is a complex subject for lash artists to grasp, and looks really intimidating at first , but it gets much easier with practice.

Lash extensions are really exciting but if it’s your first time, it can be kind of daunting. Hopefully, this post helps you understand the basics of lash curls. Have fun, experiment with different styles, lengths, and curls. 

Also, keep in mind, lash technicians are your best friends. Feel comfortable to sit down, discuss your needs, and have them recommend something for you if you are unsure. They have worked with hundreds of eye shapes and lashes in their years of experience and would happily suggest something that will have you leaving feeling amazing!

As for our lash sisters, don't be intimidated working with lash curls, it will keep you an opportunity to explore on different looks and your clients would appreciate if you can educate them with different curls that will be suitable for them. 

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