Advanced Lash Techniques for Hooded Eyes: A Comprehensive Guide for Lash Artists

When working with clients who have hooded eyes, lash artists need to be especially precise in their techniques to ensure a flattering, lifted look. Hooded eyes present unique challenges due to the fold of skin that can cover part of the eyelid, but with the right approach, lash extensions can dramatically enhance and open up the eyes.

In this blog, we’ll cover advanced lash techniques for hooded eyes to help you deliver exceptional results every time. We’ll dive into lash mapping, curl selection, lash styles, and tips for enhancing retention, all optimized for your clients with hooded eyes.

 

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Understanding Hooded Eyes and Why Technique Matters

Hooded eyes are characterized by a fold of skin that droops over the crease, making the eyelids appear smaller. This can make applying lash extensions tricky, as improper techniques can result in lashes that appear droopy or fail to create the desired open-eye effect.

As a lash artist, your goal is to use lash mapping and styling techniques to lift and elongate the eyes.

 

Top Lash Extension Styles for Hooded Eyes

Choosing the right lash extension style is crucial to achieving a flattering look for clients with hooded eyes.

Here are the top lash extension styles that work well for hooded eyes:

 

Doll Eye Style: This style focuses on applying longer lashes in the center of the lash line. It’s perfect for hooded eyes because it opens up the middle of the eye, creating an illusion of a larger, more lifted eye shape.

 

Cat Eye Style: A popular choice, the cat-eye style uses longer lashes on the outer corners, giving the eye a more elongated and lifted appearance. However, be cautious not to overdo the outer lashes, as this can accentuate the droop in hooded eyes.

 

Open Eye Style: A balanced style that focuses on evenly distributing lash lengths across the lash line. This technique helps create symmetry and is ideal for hooded eyes that need both lift and definition.

 

Natural Volume Style: Opt for lightweight volume fans, as too much volume can weigh down the eyes. Natural volume extensions help to create a fuller look without overwhelming the small eyelid space of hooded eyes.

 

Learn about different lash styles and how to choose the best one for your clients. Click here to find out more.

 

Advanced Lash Mapping for Hooded Eyes

Lash mapping is a critical technique for lash artists working with clients who have hooded eyes. A well-executed lash map can completely transform the client’s appearance, making the eyes appear larger and more open.

 

Step-by-Step Lash Mapping for Hooded Eyes:

Identify the Eye Shape:

Begin by analyzing the client’s eye shape. For hooded eyes, focus on creating lift by concentrating longer lash lengths in specific areas (e.g., the middle or outer corners, depending on the desired effect).

Use Shorter Lashes on the Inner Corners:

This helps to prevent the eye from appearing too narrow. Lashes that are too long on the inner corners can drag the eyes down.

Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches, Lash Tape, Lashes, Velour Lash Adhesive, Incredible Retention Primer and Super Bonder are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Gradual Length Increase:

For the doll-eye effect, use shorter lashes at the inner and outer corners, gradually increasing the length toward the center. This will lift the eye and give it a rounder appearance.

Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches, Lash Tape, Volume Lashes, Ultra Crystal Clear Bond, Incredible Retention Primer and Silicone Extra Sensitive Tape are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Consider Volume Fans for Lift:

Use lightweight volume fans to create lift and fullness without adding too much weight. For hooded eyes, smaller volume fans (3D-5D) can provide the perfect balance.

Straight Isolation Tweezer, Large Tip Boot Tweezer, Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches, Lash Tape, Volume Lashes, Ultra Crystal Clear Bond, Incredible Retention Primer and Silicone Extra Sensitive Tape are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Best Lash Curls for Hooded Eyes

Selecting the right lash curl can make all the difference for hooded eyes. The goal is to open the eye and prevent the lashes from hitting the brow bone or eyelid fold.

 

D Curl

The dramatic curve of a D curl is perfect for hooded eyes because it provides the maximum lift. This curl type helps lashes pop and prevents them from looking droopy.

 

L Curl

With its straight base and upward curl, the L curl is ideal for clients with hooded eyes, especially if their lashes naturally point downward. This curl helps lashes clear the lid fold and stay visible.

 

CC Curl

For clients who prefer a softer look but still need lift, the CC curl provides a balance between the natural C curl and the dramatic D curl. This is a great option if you want to create a more subtle lift.

 

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Choosing the Right Lash Length and Thickness

When working with hooded eyes, it’s important to be strategic about lash length and thickness to avoid overwhelming the eyes.

Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches, Dark Brown Color Lashes, Ultra Crystal Clear Bond, Incredible Retention Primer and Super Bonder are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Lash Length:

Keep the lengths between 8mm to 12mm, with a gradual increase in length toward the center or outer corners, depending on the style. Avoid extremely long lashes, as they can make the eyes look heavier.

 

Lash Thickness:

Stick with thinner lash diameters (0.05mm to 0.07mm). Thicker lashes can be too heavy for hooded eyes, causing them to droop rather than lift.

 

Retention Tips for Hooded Eyes

Clients with hooded eyes may experience quicker lash fallout due to the friction between their lashes and the skin on the eyelid.

Here are a few tips to improve lash retention for hooded eyes:

Lashes, Velour Lash Adhesive, Incredible Retention Primer and Super Bonder are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

Proper Lash Placement: Place the lash extensions slightly away from the skin to reduce contact and friction. Ensure that the lashes are securely bonded to prevent premature fallout.

 

Oil-Free Cleansers: Recommend that clients use oil-free lash cleansers to prevent weakening of the adhesive. Hooded eyes tend to produce more natural oils, which can break down lash glue.

 

Regular Lash Fills: Due to the friction from the eyelid fold, clients with hooded eyes may need more frequent lash fills. Set expectations with your clients that they may need to come in every 2-3 weeks for optimal lash retention.

 

Having trouble with lash retention? Try our Lash Retention Online Course OR grab a free retention checklist. Click here to get started.

 

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using Heavy Volume Lashes: Volume lashes that are too heavy will only make hooded eyes look smaller and can cause premature lash fallout. Opt for lighter, more delicate fans.

Incorrect Lash Curl Selection: Avoid using curls that are too natural (like B or C curls) on hooded eyes, as they may not provide enough lift and can make the eyes look droopy.

Not Customizing Lash Mapping: Each client’s hooded eyes will be different. Ensure that you customize the lash map based on the client’s natural lash growth pattern and personal preferences.

 

EYELASH EXTENSIONS FOR ASIAN EYES

Whether you’re an eyelash pro or an extension newbie wanting to know what exactly to ask your technician for, we’ve got tips that will be helpful to you below.

It is important to note that there are a lot of factors to consider when you get eyelash extensions. Though your eye shape is possibly the most significant thing, you should also consider your eyelash condition, how fast your lashes grow, and even your face shape.

Promade Fans, Velour Lash Adhesive, Lash Tape and Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

 

Are monolids and hooded eyes the same?

No, monolid eyes and hooded eyes are not the same.

• Monolid eyes lack a visible crease between the eyelid and the brow bone. This means the eyelid appears flat without a fold.

• Hooded eyes, on the other hand, have a visible crease, but a fold of skin droops over the crease, partially covering the eyelid.

Both eye shapes require different lash mapping techniques, but they are distinct from each other.

 

REMEMBER: A monolid eye is a single eyelid that lacks a crease. A double eyelid does not have a crease. Monolids are a common face feature among Asians. On the other hand, other races may have a monolid or eyelid form without a crease.

It's essential to remember that beauty comes in all shapes and sizes, even eyelid forms. Monolids are unique and gorgeous.

 

IT IS IMPORTANT TO CONSIDER THE CLIENT'S EYES STRUCTURE WHEN CHOOSING THE MAPPING FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL CLIENT

 

Clients with folded eyelids and monolids inner corners should be mapped out slightly differently. As illustrated, if the lash lengths are too short, like 7-8mm, the skin will cover many of the client's extensions.

The solution for this is to increase the inner corner lashes length to balance out the client's eyes and give the client an open-eyed look.

 

GENETICS

Monolid eyes are most frequent in people of Asian heritage with eyelashes. Monolids can also be found in people of different races with horizontal, extended eyes. Furthermore, some people with huge hoods on their eyelids may appear to have monolids. A monolid is formed when the skin folds over the visible crease.

Color Lashes, Velour Lash Adhesive, Super Bonder, and Incredible Retention Primer are used in this set. To shop, please click here. 

 

CAN MONOLIDS GET EYELASH EXTENSIONS?

For Asian eyes, eyelash extensions are a great option. Monolids will conceal the top half of all eyelashes, whereas eyes with folded eyelids will display the length of lash extensions you desire. As a result, for monolids, you should use 1mm to 2mm longer extensions.

 

To learn more about the ideal eyelash extension for monolid eyes, please click here.

  

TRIANGULAR EYES

Triangular eyes are a common problem in older clients. The outer eye area can begin to sag, causing the client to feel like they have an unflattering eye shape. This can be especially true for Asian clients with hooded eyes, who often struggle with this issue.

 

The good news is there are ways to turn your triangular eyes into something more flattering and youthful! One way is by choosing an eyelash extension that enhances the current shape of your eyes.

When choosing a natural lash extension, avoid anything too dramatic or drastic. You don't want to make your eyes look even more triangular than they already do!

Instead, opt for something more subtle and natural-looking—it will make all the difference in how you appear!

 

DOWNTURNED EYES

Downturned eyes are usually considered to be an Asian trait, but many other people have them as well! With downturned eyes, you can still achieve a beautiful eye look with lash extensions.

Recommended Lash Extension: Cat Eyes  

 

Eyelash extensions can open up the eye area, giving it a lift that makes the eyes look more awake and alert. This is especially true for people with Asian hooded eyes, who tend to have a slight downward tilt to the outer corners of their eyes.

The hooded eye shape can make it hard to see the eyelid area, making the eyes appear tired or sad. Eyelash extensions can help by visually lifting the eye area to appear brighter and more awake.

 

To learn more about what lash extensions are best for downturned eyes, please click here.

 

UPTURNED EYES

Upturned eyes have a lot in common with upturned lips. They're both the opposite of downturned, making people look like they're smiling, even when they're not.

Upturned eyes are also the opposite of droopy eyes, which you get when you're tired or hungover (or both). Upturned eyes tend to be more alert and energetic than droopy eyes, making people with upturned eyes seem more serious or in control.

But just because these people seem more serious doesn't mean they don't have fun! They're just better at hiding it than people with downturned eyes.

 

Recommended Lash Extension: Open Eyes

 

To learn more about the best lashes for upturned eyes, please click here.

 

HOW TO TAPE THE INNER CORNER?

This is the best way to apply the lash tape to remove the extra skin and ensure that all the small inner corners hairs are worked thoroughly perfectly.

This is especially important when working with clients that have smaller eyes and when working with hooded eyes.

Since the visibility of hooded eyes will be more difficult for the lash artist, it is always recommended to have the perfect tools and techniques to make visualizing the inner corners easier and more effective for the lash artist.

 

Lash Tape, Hydro-Gel Under Eye Patches and Silicone Extra Sensitive Tape are used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

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Lash Extensions Asian Eyes

• Apply surgical tape just above the base of the lashes on the upper lid. Next, pull it just a little bit towards the temple. This causes the lashes to isolate automatically!

• J and B curl lashes are ideal for Asian eyes, especially if your Asian client has a monolid – meaning that there is no visible eyelid crease. C curls tend to look very unnatural with a monolid eye.

• If your client has a super slanted eye, where the inner corner is lower than the outer corner, avoid applying lashes too much to the inner corner. Using lashes here can cause this eye to appear even smaller or even closed.

• Use a shorter length on Asian eyes than you would use on clients of other ethnicities. However, thicker diameters work best!

 

 

 

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HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR EYELASH EXTENSIONS?

• Don’t get your lashes wet for 24-48 hours after your eyelash application.

• Avoid using oil-based eye makeup removed.

• If your eyelashes get tangled, brush them out with eyelash extension brushes.

• Try to sleep on your back!

• Make it a habit to clean your lashes regularly. 

Lash Foam is used in this set. To shop, please click here.

 

WORKING WITH M CURL LASHES AND WORKS WELL WITH HOODED EYES

 

It’s incredibly important when working on eyelash extensions for Asian eyes to avoid lash curls that will be unflattering.

 

 

 

For monolids, it’s better to avoid using flat curls like J and B since the natural lash is already flat. This curl will weigh down the lash and make the eye look smaller.

 

 

 

L and L + curls are exotic and trendy curls that can be used on some monolid lash clients. These curls can sometimes obstruct the client’s view, and therefore it is sometimes best to either avoid them or only use shorter lengths to avoid blocking the client’s field of vision.

Monolid clients will typically have straighter lashes. Choose a more dramatically curled lash, such as an L or L+. Thanks to their flat base and significant curl, these extensions will open the eyes by peeking through the otherwise heavy lash line without weighing down natural eyelashes.

Choose a stronger curl like C-curl or D-curl for monolid clients. L and L Plus curls can be used for monolids, creating a lovely chic set.

 

Example of how an L curl can look for clients with monolids:

 

 

 

Conclusion

Lash extensions for hooded eyes require advanced techniques, careful curl selection, and a precise approach to lash mapping. By understanding how to best enhance and lift hooded eyes, you’ll be able to offer your clients stunning, long-lasting results that keep them coming back.

Incorporating these advanced lash techniques for hooded eyes into your practice will not only improve client satisfaction but also position you as a specialist in lash extensions for different eye shapes.

Asian eyelids are a unique challenge for lash artists. The shape of Asian eyes differs from Caucasian and African American eyes, which means that the lashes need to be applied differently to achieve a natural look.

Asian lashes are straight, extremely hard to curl, extra thin, often sparse, and usually point straight down. Also, our eyes are shaped so differently from other ethnicities that the technician needs to have special artistic skills to place the proper length and choose the best lashes for Asian eyes throughout the eye to create the perfect look.

 

 

Do you find this blog post helpful? Have you learned something? Leave a comment below and share your thoughts. Don’t forget to share this blog with your lash friend.

 

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Working With Lash Curls: This blog intends to educate each one of you to know the types of lash curls that you can offer to your clients and more of eyelash extensions for Asian eyes, hooded eyes.

How To Work With Difficult Lashes?: Detailed video on how to work and assess your client's lashes and which kind of lash extension set suits them best.

What You Need To Know About M Curl Lashes?: M curl is part of the strong curls that have taken the lash industry by storm lately. Learn how to work with M curl lashes on this blog.