Lash Direction: Everything You Need to Know

Lash Direction: Everything You Need to Know. Lash artists! Would you like a great way to improve your lash sets?

As any lash artist knows, applying lash extensions is an art that requires a lot of care and precision. Getting the application right is crucial, as even a small mistake can result in disastrous consequences.

Work on improving direction.

The way you direct lashes when applying them to natural lashes will make a great impact on the final look of your set.

Naturally, there is no cookie-cutter solution that will fit all sets. However, you should look at the clients as a whole in order to evaluate their features and decide which direction you should work on.

  • Wide-set eyes
  • Close-set eyes
  • Narrow eyes
  • Or simply to achieve particular #lashstyle


There are four ways of directing the lash placement

1. Slanted direction outwards
2. Slanted inwards
3. Straight placement
4. Combined directions


Let’s consider this example:

Your client’s eyes are far apart if you direct the lashes towards the outer corners, you will emphasize her eyes being far apart, and the final result will be less then ideal.

On the other hand, if you make the lash direction straight or slightly tilted inwards towards the nose, you will have the opposite effect. This will make the clients appreciate your overall work more, because of the balanced symmetry of her features.

Let’s take another example:

A client with slanted eyes, in order to give a more open wider look to the client’s eyes you can work on straightening the direction.

Another important factor is the distance between the eyelid and the lash extension. If it is bigger then 0.5 cm, it is more difficult to keep the perfect direction of your lash set, because the lashes will naturally start dropping downwards and it will look uneven and messy in a week after the clients leave from your appointment.

And furthermore, another mistake that will prevent you from having the perfect direction is being seated in the wrong position in relation to the client.

If you are seated too far from the client you will have difficulty reaching the inner corners of the eyes. It is important to ensure that the lash artist is seated close enough to the client to freely be able to reach the inner corners. It is also vital to ensure that the elbows are not resting on the lash table. They should be free to move, without resting on the table.

Ensure your hands have optimal support when you are lashing. If your hands are shaking you will not be able to achieve the desired direction.

Finally, how can you evaluate your work and see if you succeeded in mastering the direction of your lash sets? If you see any lashes crisscrossing, this is an error in direction. If you notice open gaps in your lash line, this is also an error in direction.

Sometimes, it can be sufficient to remove 3-4 lashes that were placed incorrectly and place them properly. This will greatly improve your lashes overall look. Don’t rush, I encourage you to take your time, and explain to your clients that if they want perfect lashes, they need to be patient.

In order to achieve a nice direction with your lash sets the angles don’t all need to be the same. To get that nice wing effect, your inner corners should be straight at 90 degrees.

As you continue your set outwards you can start decreasing the angle the lash fan is pointed, in the middle to the outer corner of the eye the angle you will be utilizing is 45- 30 degrees.

The final outer corners will be lying flat at 180 degrees in order to give that wing effect. Keep in mind this is just one type of direction you can try, there is more to explore.

How can you improve the direction of your lash work?

Here are some tips which you can use right away to see the difference!

  1. Always make sure you place the extension on the natural lash in the same distance from the eyelid. It should be no more than 0.5 – 0.6 mm.
  2. It is extremely important to take into account how you angle/point the lash extensions out to the sides when starting a new set.
  3. The angle of placement: small in the inner part of the eye (an angle of 3-4 degrees), average in the central part (an angle of 5-7 degrees), and the maximum in the outer part of the eye (almost parallel to the eyelid).
  4. When you attach the extension (minding the correct placement), do not touch it for at least 30 seconds. Instead of moving on to the next lash, switch over to another area or the other eye in order not to spoil the direction of the freshly glued extension.



Extensions must be placed along with the natural eyelash, 0.5mm-0.1mm away from the skin along the lash line. If the extensions are not correctly placed at the distance required, this can result in two issues.

First, you will be too far out along the natural lash, leaving a visible gap. This will make it look like the client has had 2 – 3 weeks of lash growth and they are requiring infills.

Alternatively, if the lash extension is placed too close to the skin, you may have the opposite concern. In this case, the lash will rub every time that the client opens and closes their eye. Even blinking will feel like they have sand rubbing in their eye.

This can be extremely uncomfortable and may even lead to swelling, redness, and puffiness to the eye area.

As you can see, the incorrect eyelash application can cause all kinds of issues to the eye area and skin surrounding it. To avoid causing serious damage, doing your research, and having the correct training in the lash application is crucial.


Mistakes in Direction: How to Avoid it?

The first mistakes are the multi-directional of artificial eyelash extension. It occurs when you don’t put the eyelash extension according to a certain scheme. If your client has straight natural lashes and it’ll be easier to work with, but, what about with clients with eyelash growth unevenly?

  • Brush your eyelashes and have a good look at them.

You should look above the middle of the eyelash – at the tips, not at the base. Eyelashes should be aligned, if they look at each other or cross each other – some eyelashes are directed incorrectly.

  • Gaps help to understand that there’ s a problem with the direction

If the native lashes before the build-up were without any gaps, this indicates that the lashes in this area aren’t evenly tilted.

  • Another way to find your mistakes is to remove the overlapped fans

Because of them, the eyelashes’ tips will always be crossed. Even if you have only 3-4 such fans the whole work will look messy.

3 tips for Eyelash Extension Application for Curly Lashes

It doesn’t matter what types of lashes your clients might have, even those with naturally curly lashes are still looking for ways to look beautiful. Read on for ways to identify coarse, curly lashes, and how to effectively apply lash extensions to these beauties every time.

Coarse, curly lashes are beautiful because they are natural, but they can also pose some challenges with lash extension application. These types of lashes have a naturally dramatic lift in the lash curl, but they also tend to have errant curls going in different directions.

  • Choose The Right Isolation Tweezers

The Size Matters Isolation and Measurement Lash Tweezers help you evaluate natural lash length, with a built-in ruler to accurately assess the length of your client’s lashes.

  • Position your client appropriately

It’s easy to miss a small amount of the client’s curly lashes if you don’t have. your client in the right position. The client should be positioned so that you can see the base of the lash curl clearly.

  • If necessary, use a heated eyelash curler

You can use a heated eyelash curler to straighten the client’s lashes prior to extension placement.

  •  Take care with coarse, curly lashes

No two clients’ lashes will be the same and, on many clients, no two lashes will be the same either. Carrying a wide array of lash extensions enables you to accommodate clients with different lengths, curls, and thicknesses in natural lashes.

I hope you learn so much from this blog, let us know which topic you want us to post on our next blog. Check out our website for a wide selection of luxury lash products for your beloved clients.

For helpful tips and tricks, follow us on our IG accounts: @thousandlashes_ and @thousandlashessupplies

Online courses are readily available for you all. 

Online Lash Fans Making Course

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This course has been developed to make learning fun and easy. I will guide you step by step through the content and show you how to achieve finesse and perfection in your volume work.

Lash Mapping Online Course

Your Ultimate Guide on Different Lash Looks and Styling Techniques. Time to Level Up Your Skills and Create Fabulash Sets and elevate your lash game. 

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